After four days in the primary amazon today it was time to say good-bye. We left the camp on the beach in the morning and went in direction of a different community. At the arrival I was surprised about what I saw – a village what felt like a ghost town since there were almost no people on the streets. And very untypical buildings. Not really that what you would expect to see in the amazon. There was a big landing strip for small planes. Because of the Christmas holidays most of the indigenous had left to Puyo as well. I try to went to the toilets but was so disgusted since there all were filled up with feces. My legs were itching of too many bug bites… and I felt slightly pain in my kidneys. I was ready for a hot shower and clean clothes and a bed. I was waiting for the plane what was supposed to bring us back into civilisation. While waiting a few left villagers came up to me and tried to sell their handicrafts. And a woman which told me she was responsible for healing over there. That sounded great I was thinking since my kidney hurt and I love to try the jungle medicine. At the point where I wanted to see what she got one of the guides came back and was furious and forbid me to go with her… I had not know that if you book a jungle tour you are not your own master anymore?! That was so off-putting! I would have needed that medicine. But he did not understand and it didn’t help to discuss it…They even said that these tribes people could be so dangerous and could kill you out of a sudden. I am still not sure about that. But I had no choice.

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This day was basically almost only spent in the canoe. We used the motor again because we went up the river. A little cooking break was made at a hose in the jungle were a single old indigenous couple and their numerous dogs live. Amazing how these people just live there mostly from their land and the forest. The old man showed us some natural seed was makes red paint and later he wanted a cigarette – not for smoking. If a certain insect stings him he burns out the would with a cigarette. We left after lunch and a few hours later it suddenly started to rain… but heavy rain. We had not even time for protecting us with the raincoats. In the beginning I found that rain extremely refreshing. But then the wind blew and the sky started to get darker… I realized that there will be no sun anymore for today and this clothes will stay wet. While feeling wet and uncomfortable – and dreaming of a hot shower – something swam in the river close to the canoe. It was a tortoise which was caught quickly. The indigenous man Don Cesar wanted to keep it. I still hope he brought it for his kids to play with and not for a family meal. Finally the camp was erected and as soon as the fire was burning I slowly became warm again. This time we were sleeping on the beach and that was the last night in the wilderness. The next day I will be sleep in a bed again.

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In the morning we visited the community school. There were not many kids at that time since most families went to Puyo for the Christmas holidays. The result was that they were only two kids in one and three kids in the other class. In Ecuador especially young teacher who just finished their degree at university will be send to these jungle schools to make their first teaching experiences. That is hard since many tribes have their own language and the teacher mostly does not speak it but the curriculum requires studies in their tribes language, in Spanish and also English. The kids are very intelligent and clever and thirst for knowledge.
Then we packed our things and took the canoe down the river without using the engine so we were supposed to see more wildlife. In reality it is very hard to spot animals in the amazon. We saw just a few birds every now and then but even those were so far away for taking great closeup pictures. We tried to fish some piranhas with the meanwhile smelly rotten leftover bait meat. I felt them biting but I could not catch any. This night we slept in the jungle were the guides cut free a campsite. Normally we would have tried spotting some alligators but it was full moon and that’s the only time where it is bright enough for them to spot you in the dark. So – never make a jungle trip at full moon if you want to spot them. Otherwise the moon was very beautiful and I ask the guide for just taking me out with the boat for watching the moon. I even saw few alligator eyes glowing red on the other riverside but that was all I saw of them.

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A couple of weeks ago the horse guide in Baños had introduced me to few of his friends who had a travel agency in town which did tours into the primary amazon of Ecuador. I had loved my last amazon trip in 2009 so much so I was exited to go again. But since I travel alone this is a whole other story! Mostly travelers have to wait to find a bigger group or the need to book an expensive single guide. So I found myself lucky to run into these people who even insured me we could try to find a jaguar since I wanted to take pictures of it. I got a really great deal for five days but since we could reach that area only by plane it was going to be expensive. They told me a plane for seven people cost US$700 and wanted me to pay half of it – US$350. I found that too expensive and was lucky to find another guy Wendolin who was looking for a trip to the rainforest as well. So I could share the flight expense between two what made a great difference. For the jaguar the guides got a alive rooster as a bait and some beef meat. They thought the sound of a rooster and the smell of meat would catch the attention of a big cat… reality was it didn’t work out since territories of wild animals are big and traps have to be set a few days in advance. To the first Huaorani / Waorani tribe we took that tiny airplane. The first time that I have taken a small airplane like that. The great rainforest was lush and seemed limitless. Before we went on the plane we needed to weight ourselves and our belongings so that there was exactly not to much loaded. Ironic enough the pilot seemed to be quite heavy but that didn’t counted. After a 40min flight what didn’t seemed that long we arrived in the village and found ourselves surrounded by the people in an instant. They guided us to a big shelter and the guides started to cook. After that we went straight to that place were they tried to set the jaguar photo trap and the tents. This night was probably one of the most uncomfortable nights in my life and we had not seen any wild animal at all… Guess that all is part of the experience.

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