I love giant tortoises and I love horse riding – so there was no question about it, I had to go back to the Rancho Mariposa of Steven Divine. I loved that ranch so much at the last visit with the group but I felt rushed. This time I took time and what is nicer than exploring the highlands on the back of a horse. I chose a white horse called Muchacha. Steven’s horses are easy to ride and not spoiled as so many other rental horses everywhere. I was so much fun because almost everywhere we went we saw giant tortoises in their natural habitat. They immigrate through the ranch so at this time of the year lots and lots were on that area. This day I will never forget – it was definitely one of my personal highlights of being in the Galapagos.

Rancho Mariposa

Santa Cruz

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North Seymour got a frigate bird colony which we visited this morning. Everywhere one see these bird sitting in the trees. Some male showed off with there bright colorful red throats to impress the females. In between you can observe the fluffy chicks. On North Seymour I saw the only free land iguanas of my trip. Unfortunately it was so early that there were still sleeping since they need the sun to become active.
Today ends the official part of my Galapagos trip. It is time to relax now without any guides and to explore the beautiful islands on my own…
Thank you all for your support in the voting in May 2010 to gave me the chance to fulfill my dream to travel to Galapagos. It was by far the best trip I ever did probably because I wished for it for soooooo long. Now I will write down everything to raise awareness for the endangered animals in Galapagos because they need our help and protection. Hope you gonna support me again on my way….

North Seymour

Santa Cruz

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Floreana island is probably the most mysterious island of the Galapagos. It has a interesting history with lots of unsolved secrets. After the second world war the German Dr. Ritter escaped with his mistress Dore Strauch who was the wife of his best friend to the island of Floreana to live a simple life on their own. Dr. Ritter was a dentist and philosopher and he chose the uninhabited island because he wanted to be on his own but as well there was the famous post barrel and he could write about his life and ships would pick it up and it would be published in Germany. Funny enough the dentist had taken precautions towards his and his mistress teeth and took them out so they would never suffer tooth ache. The money was just enough for one pair of artificial teeth so they had to share it in between them for meals. There peaceful life in solitude ended when another German family the Wittmers arrived, after reading the inspiring articles about Dr. Ritters life in the newspaper. The didn’t came along that well but still they could live alright sharing the island. When the Baroness with her three lovers arrived the live became most uncomfortable for all of them. Then several mysterious death and disappears happened – actually the secret were never solved until today. So there are several myths around this island.
After a visit of the legendary barrel post station at the beach and leaving a postcard we had time for ourselves. Later in the afternoon I visited Punta Cormorant but it is just the name, there are no cormorants here. But beautiful landscape. Unfortunately the flamingos were not to see but in the ocean it was possible to observe rays.

Post Office Bay

Punta Cormorant

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This was by far the island with the most abounded wildlife of the Galapagos from all I’ve seen. Animals wherever you look – and step. So you need to be careful. Isla Espanola is the oldest of all Galapagos islands with a vast number of birds like bluefooted boobies, Nazca or masked boobies, albatross, frigate birds. Lots of marine iguanas lying around in the most colorful version – red and green. Sea lions sleep on the beach with lots of pubs… I did not know where to look first: the impressive majestic Galapagos hawk, the funny dancing boobies or the cute boobie and albatross chicks… No doubt this is how earth was back in the days when all creatures lived peaceful in harmony with eachother…
In the morning I visited first Gardner bay with one of the nicest white sand beaches. In the afternoon we went to Punta Suárez what is supposed to be the wildest wet landing because here the waves are very high…Yes Galapagos is paradise and I am blessed to be able to experienced this… I hope when you see the photos you understand why it is important to safe the animals and to do everything possible to protect the last innocence of mother earth.

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Punta Suárez

This morning the crew woke us up pretty early so we could see the famous “Leon Dormido” or Kicker Rock close by. It is a very impressive rock formation shaped like a sleeping sea lion. There is no access on that rock but lots of birds nesting over there. We spent over an hour on the beach of Isla San Christobal and we were able to do whatever we felt after. What a paradise – again! The sand is as soft as it can get and pure white. Lazy sea lions everywhere the eye looked… And it was warm amazingly. I wouldn’t have mind if I could have had stayed longer since it was so peaceful and the first time of that cruise I felt not stressed by the guide who always wanted everybody to hurry. Later we went snorkeling with the sea lions. The afternoon was spent in the village of San Christobal what is very small. Part of the program was a visit in the local museum and after that we had a few ours for ourselves… I went to Punta Carola a beach near by. Just relaxing and watching the lazy sea lions surfing the waves…

Leon Dormido – Kicker Rock

Isla San Christobal – beach

Isla San Christobal – Punta Carola

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Even though everything you see in Galapagos is amazing I was really looking forward to today since I was finally supposed to see the giant tortoises I had dreamed of for so long. There are so fascinating animals looking like from a different world. I was so excited… After breakfast we left early in the morning to the Charles Darwin Research Station which is primarily an international research station. Located just outside of Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz it is home of the famous tortoise “Lonesome George” who is probably the last of his kind and people try to breed him since years – so far without any success. The station is not that big and you see baby tortoises, bigger tortoises divided by female and male. I arrived right at feeding time and if its about food big tortoises can become quite fast. I saw “Lonesome George” and his female companions. George is very special looking and got a very long neck. There are three types of tortoise shell shapes: saddleback, dome shaped and in between. The different shapes were found on different islands. While saddleback tortoises live in dry habitat, dome-shaped ones are found in moister areas with lush vegetation. In the afternoon we were able to visit the Rancho Mariposa in the highlands. It is a private place to watch giant tortoises in their natural habitat. Being private got one major advantage – we were able to see the tortoises closely. Steven Divine the owner of that ranch does have lots and lots of tortoises migrating to his property. So he offers visitors to see them. So far that was my favorite experience and I am thinking about to visit it again. It is just so wonderful to be close to these majestic but slow animals. The walk brings you first to a dense forest and two smaller caves were we saw an owl and wild goats. Later on former cattle ground you will see the tortoises – everywhere. I think it might be between 20-30 of them. What a great site!

Santa Cruz

Charles Darwin Research Station

Rancho Mariposa

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Probably the most famous picture while thinking of Galapagos is a panorama of the view point of Bartolome island a small island on the on the east coast of Santiago island (James island). In the morning we did a “wet landing” and could see few rare penguins and some sea lions. Then I was climbing up the hill and to be honest the view is magnificent. On the agenda for the afternoon was walking across the lava tubes and ashes. The landscape looked like the moon and the lava rocks were very sharp. There grew nothing except some lava cactus every now and then. It is hot at the lava fields. The eruption what formed these fields is not that long away at the 19th century. I didn’t find much animals here except a few finches, lava lizzards and grasshoppers. We left the same afternoon to Santa Cruz and arrived after 5 hours around 6:00pm.

Isla Bartolome

Lava fields

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Overnight we arrived at Santiago or James island. The islands mostly have two or more names over here. Charles Darwin himself spent about 9 days on the island to observe animals. Later in the 1920’s and 1960’s it was used for salt mining. Early around 6:00am we left the boat for the first “wet-landing” on the island. We arrived at Puerto Egas and walked along the trail observing seal lions and marine iguanas. On the way we arrived at the tidal pools where you can see the rare fur seals. These animals were hunted until almost extinction because of there fur but meanwhile they about to recover. It is unbelievable how friendly Galapagos animals are. They don’t know the fear for humans. You can go very closely and sit in between them to observe. Amazing! It is better than I ever expected it could be! After a quick break for breakfast on the boat we went for a snorkel and saw beautiful turtles. From the boat I watched actually a shark hunting tuna… In the afternoon we visited another site of that island with sea lions hanging out on the beach everywhere. We did a hike up through an area with lots of cactus while observing several birds like the finches, mockingbirds, frigate birds, boobies and pelicans. Everywhere you look there is abundant wildlife!

Puerto Egas at Isla Santiago
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Snorkel  near Isla Santiago

Isla Rabida

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This day started with a short night. Sleeping in the Mercure Hotel in Quito was kind of unpleasant. The bathroom was dirty but I didn’t mind. I found hairs of previous guests. But I was angry after I had washed my hair and the hairdryer was not working properly. Calling the reception and asking for a new one seemed to be difficult. Even more they suggested me to bring one in the morning – but my hair was wet – NOW. Finally I got a hairdryer and also only three more hours of sleep. When I woke up some coins felt out of my pockets and while I was reaching for them I found something else – a used sock what was not mine! This actually never had happened to me before. Not even to mention that the organization of my trip was very unorganized! I didn’t even received the welcome letter with the trip itinerary. So I had missed the meeting with one guide what was the previous evening.
Well in the end we arrived at the airport and around noon in Galapagos.
Galapagos. Finally my dream become true of the islands known to be the Garden Eden and the island where Charles Darwin came up with his evolution theory.
I had done so much to fulfill that dream that it seemed surreal sitting in the plane to it. While checking in at customs I even felt sort of sentimental and had to swallow to not cry because of happiness. At the airport of Baltra our guide Fabian (Yes same name as the other Fabian in Quito.) picked the group up and brought us all to the little harbor where our boat San José was waiting for us. I got lucky and got the best cabin what was behind the bridge of the boat at the upper level – room 5. That day we had lunch on the boat and went with the little dingy boats for a cruise at Caleta Tortuga Negra (Black Turtle Cove) at the mangroves to spot the first animals…. We saw three species of mangrove, red, white and black and all can be found here. Galapagos was what I thought about it. You just need to be awake and look out and you will see so many animals. On the way to turtle bay the boat was surrounded by flying fregatte birds everywhere. We observed several birds like brown pelicans and noddies who simply wait until the pelican catches some fish and then steal it. Funny to watch these naughty birds! Then we watched mating turtles and white tip reef sharks. I still had to pinch myself to realize that I was there… But I am!

Ecuadors capital Quito is wonderful. Everywhere you see old colonial style houses and churches. The streets and especially the Plaza Grande. After the coup the army was standing around the Palacio de Carondelet. I actually felt like a giant between all those small people. Even the soldiers were smaller… It is good to be back in South America. The people are so warm and friendly and it is easy to talk to people everywhere.

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