This morning I was invited of a friend for a snorkel trip to Tintoreras. Before you actually snorkel over there you are walking a small island and there is one part where you can watch sleeping white tip sharks from above. Normally most sharks need to be in constant move to breathe but at this spot they are protected and the current is still strong enough so they can rest without moving. Of course every now and then they swim but in between they sleep. I have never seen something like that before. Then I went snorkeling and I don’t have to say it again but – it is freezing in Galapagos waters. I saw schools of surgeon fish, turtles and finally I swam and played with a curious sea lion for about 20min and took some great videos of it what I will post as soon as I have the possibility to edit…

Tintoreras

On Isabella there is that part of an unfinished building called Muro de las Lagrimas or Wall of Tears. According to the  history, the wall was built by prisoners for prisoners. They were supposed to build their own jail. They say hundreds of prisoners built on that wall only watched by a few police men. The prison was never finished and the portion that was built took four years to build. Now it stays there in the wild landscape of Isabela as a silent reminder of the other site of Galapagos history that reminds you that there is more than the beautiful wildlife. The Wall of Tears is an impressive wall made out of hundreds of lava stones.

Muro de las Lagrimas / Wall of tears

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Another horse ride again – this time up to the volcano Chino and the Sierra Negra. It is my first real volcano crater I looked into. And it was big – filled with cold lava fields wherever I looked. The horse ride was worth it but it was so dusty that I looked kind of red after the trip and needed a shower desperately. The horses where very used and at times hard to direct. At top we walked a few more minutes into the Sierra Negra. All dry and few cactus. The landscapes so differs from each other here in the Galapagos. But it is beautiful to be here. In the evening I was invited to a lobster BBQ by my Argentinian friends. Was a very funny evening since they know how to party….

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I was so tired today that I slept in. Around 11:00am I decided to make a visit at the near by Tortoise breeding station because I didn’t wanted to make a big excursion somewhere for today. The way to the station was quite lovely with all these paths through the wilderness alongside some sort of lakes where I could observe a few flamingos. I haven’t seen them on my boats cruise so therefore I was more than happy to take a few shots… How pretty they are with there pink feathers which get the color through their food…
At the breeding station I was the only visitor and I just loved to watch these little tortoise babies walking somewhat clumsy over each other.

Flamingos

Tortoise breeding station at Isla Isabela

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Around 2:00pm I left Santa Cruz with a the small ferry “Gaby” to Isla Isabela. I had herd so many beautiful things about this place so I needed to see it. And I needed a break and time to relax. Through the internet I had met Claudia while researching information about Galapagos. She is the previous owner of Casa Rosada, the pink house directly on the beach with own marine iguana colony. I previously had ask the new owner Felipe how far the Casa might be from the marina. Since he had told me its close I didn’t take a taxi what was a mistake because the place is the last house on the beach. Eventually I made it. And immediately I met Tyson the maybe biggest iguana I’ve seen… He looked massive especially when lying in between all these small iguanas. The Casa is nice and  my room had even ocean view.

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Galapagos is famous for “Lonesome George” the only tortoise left of its kind. You can buy souvenirs everywhere and there is even a clothing line with the same name. But nobody heard about Santiago the tortoise. This day I felt a bit alone so I decided it might be nice to go back to the Charles Darwin Research Station to observe the animals with enough time and also checking out the land iguana I missed last time because I was so impressed by the tortoises. So anyway I went to the place with the male tortoises. It is possible to go in with them and I was sitting next to them to watch. Out of a sudden this one tortoise (later I found out its name is Santiago) came up to me and came very close to my face kissing me… I was surprised. But it was such a magical atmosphere and the tortoise started to rub on my jeans so I touched it carefully. It liked it so much that it stood up on all legs and the neck got longer and longer. I continued rubbing the tortoise and it enjoyed it so much that it even closed its eyes… After 10min another tortoises seemed to become jealous and wanted some rubs as well. It was amazing. I felt so close to these gentle giants and it was a very special moment I just had only for myself!

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I love giant tortoises and I love horse riding – so there was no question about it, I had to go back to the Rancho Mariposa of Steven Divine. I loved that ranch so much at the last visit with the group but I felt rushed. This time I took time and what is nicer than exploring the highlands on the back of a horse. I chose a white horse called Muchacha. Steven’s horses are easy to ride and not spoiled as so many other rental horses everywhere. I was so much fun because almost everywhere we went we saw giant tortoises in their natural habitat. They immigrate through the ranch so at this time of the year lots and lots were on that area. This day I will never forget – it was definitely one of my personal highlights of being in the Galapagos.

Rancho Mariposa

Santa Cruz

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I made a mistake today and went diving with Albatros Tours a dive company in Puerto Ayora. Two days ago I had checked my wet suit over there and for one hour they really could not find me the right seize and I got so exhausted (trying on thick wetsuits is exhausting) that I almost gave up at that point already. I should have! When I ask after my fins and hood they said it will be on the boat and I should not worry. Then today on the boat what was not even a dive boat more like a nutshell we went to famous Gordon Rocks. People of all dive level were mixed up. Some had only 8 dives or haven’t dove in a long time. The fins were not the right seize, some people they had give fins of two different kind! The hoods were not fitting so needed to dive without! And when I thought to refuse to dive they refused to give me back my money…. I showed them off the security leaks but they didn’t care… Out of a sudden my BCD was broken as well – crazy but I had noticed it! Well the conditions were extreme with big waves… People run out of air after 20min. But how could they take beginners of such a dive?!? In the end it was not that extraordinary but then I saw Mola Mola the sun or moon fish. It was very big about 2 meters and it just looks amazing. What an experience. If it wasn’t for that fish I would have said it was the dive which sucked most ever….

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North Seymour got a frigate bird colony which we visited this morning. Everywhere one see these bird sitting in the trees. Some male showed off with there bright colorful red throats to impress the females. In between you can observe the fluffy chicks. On North Seymour I saw the only free land iguanas of my trip. Unfortunately it was so early that there were still sleeping since they need the sun to become active.
Today ends the official part of my Galapagos trip. It is time to relax now without any guides and to explore the beautiful islands on my own…
Thank you all for your support in the voting in May 2010 to gave me the chance to fulfill my dream to travel to Galapagos. It was by far the best trip I ever did probably because I wished for it for soooooo long. Now I will write down everything to raise awareness for the endangered animals in Galapagos because they need our help and protection. Hope you gonna support me again on my way….

North Seymour

Santa Cruz

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Floreana island is probably the most mysterious island of the Galapagos. It has a interesting history with lots of unsolved secrets. After the second world war the German Dr. Ritter escaped with his mistress Dore Strauch who was the wife of his best friend to the island of Floreana to live a simple life on their own. Dr. Ritter was a dentist and philosopher and he chose the uninhabited island because he wanted to be on his own but as well there was the famous post barrel and he could write about his life and ships would pick it up and it would be published in Germany. Funny enough the dentist had taken precautions towards his and his mistress teeth and took them out so they would never suffer tooth ache. The money was just enough for one pair of artificial teeth so they had to share it in between them for meals. There peaceful life in solitude ended when another German family the Wittmers arrived, after reading the inspiring articles about Dr. Ritters life in the newspaper. The didn’t came along that well but still they could live alright sharing the island. When the Baroness with her three lovers arrived the live became most uncomfortable for all of them. Then several mysterious death and disappears happened – actually the secret were never solved until today. So there are several myths around this island.
After a visit of the legendary barrel post station at the beach and leaving a postcard we had time for ourselves. Later in the afternoon I visited Punta Cormorant but it is just the name, there are no cormorants here. But beautiful landscape. Unfortunately the flamingos were not to see but in the ocean it was possible to observe rays.

Post Office Bay

Punta Cormorant

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This was by far the island with the most abounded wildlife of the Galapagos from all I’ve seen. Animals wherever you look – and step. So you need to be careful. Isla Espanola is the oldest of all Galapagos islands with a vast number of birds like bluefooted boobies, Nazca or masked boobies, albatross, frigate birds. Lots of marine iguanas lying around in the most colorful version – red and green. Sea lions sleep on the beach with lots of pubs… I did not know where to look first: the impressive majestic Galapagos hawk, the funny dancing boobies or the cute boobie and albatross chicks… No doubt this is how earth was back in the days when all creatures lived peaceful in harmony with eachother…
In the morning I visited first Gardner bay with one of the nicest white sand beaches. In the afternoon we went to Punta Suárez what is supposed to be the wildest wet landing because here the waves are very high…Yes Galapagos is paradise and I am blessed to be able to experienced this… I hope when you see the photos you understand why it is important to safe the animals and to do everything possible to protect the last innocence of mother earth.

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Punta Suárez