Ohhhh, how fast this year 2010 went by… It just had started. And now it is already over. Sometimes I really have the feeling that it all passes by faster with age… I had a great year with very happy and very sad moments. I hope the best for the upcoming year 2011 for all my friends and I! What I did today? I went for a walk with Todd at Casco Viejo and later for a photo excursion in the Panama Zoo to take pictures of the harpy eagle which is the biggest eagle in the world. When we saw the eagle it was far away and secretly I wished somebody to come out and feed it so it would come closer… And guess what? Somebody did! So I was able to do the following photos. In addition I’ve seen the jaguar and the tapir. Animals I wanted to spot in the wild in the amazon but were not able too… In the evening I went with friends I had met in the hostel to dinner at the Casablanca restaurant as a warm up for the long new years night.

Casco Viejo

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Harpy Eagle

Jaguar

Dinner at Casablanca

 

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Walking in Casco Viejo on the last days of the old year… Everywhere vendors selling lucky charms and incense. It smells after frankincense in the busy streets and people try to get everything they need for the last new years eve.

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My first day in Panama. I remembered a cartoon of my childhood with a little bear and a little tiger. They always used to say: “Oh how beautiful is Panama!” They were right – Panama is a wonderful place. The weather is perfectly warm. For me a perfect condition. I stayed in the old quarter, so called Casco Viejo methocarbamol farmacia del nino . It is a photographers paradise since there all over hidden corner and beautiful restored colonial houses are close neighbors to old morbid ruins. The quarters special atmosphere makes the mixture of both. Panama City was founded on the 15th of August 1519 as a important connection for colonial Spain while conquering the Inca kingdom and transporting gold from the new world. The old quarter owns as well a few beautiful old churches. One of them is accommodates the famous golden altar. In 1671 famous pirate Henry Morgan, a welsh man, was in the process of robbing Panama City. He was looking for the golden altar and it is said that his raid on Panama was one of the last military campaigns in the wars of the reformation. However the monks had time enough to paint the altar black to hide it from the pirates and that is why we can still admire it today.
Other than that I tried to get my broken external hard disc fixed and I tried to buy a new hard disc. But both didn’t work out, unfortunately.

Casco Viejo

Iglesia de San Jose

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Again my favorite place is the ‘Reserva de mono’ in Puyo! Since I am back in Baños I needed to go back. I had told that couple I had Mariana and her husband about it and they were happy to join me. I just feel so happy in between all these monkey and I love to play with them or just simply to watch them. There are literally so cheeky when they chasing the Coatis or kissing the dogs… Therefore the third load of monkey photos – enjoy!

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After four days in the primary amazon today it was time to say good-bye. We left the camp on the beach in the morning and went in direction of a different community. At the arrival I was surprised about what I saw – a village what felt like a ghost town since there were almost no people on the streets. And very untypical buildings. Not really that what you would expect to see in the amazon. There was a big landing strip for small planes. Because of the Christmas holidays most of the indigenous had left to Puyo as well. I try to went to the toilets but was so disgusted since there all were filled up with feces. My legs were itching of too many bug bites… and I felt slightly pain in my kidneys. I was ready for a hot shower and clean clothes and a bed. I was waiting for the plane what was supposed to bring us back into civilisation. While waiting a few left villagers came up to me and tried to sell their handicrafts. And a woman which told me she was responsible for healing over there. That sounded great I was thinking since my kidney hurt and I love to try the jungle medicine. At the point where I wanted to see what she got one of the guides came back and was furious and forbid me to go with her… I had not know that if you book a jungle tour you are not your own master anymore?! That was so off-putting! I would have needed that medicine. But he did not understand and it didn’t help to discuss it…They even said that these tribes people could be so dangerous and could kill you out of a sudden. I am still not sure about that. But I had no choice.

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This day was basically almost only spent in the canoe. We used the motor again because we went up the river. A little cooking break was made at a hose in the jungle were a single old indigenous couple and their numerous dogs live. Amazing how these people just live there mostly from their land and the forest. The old man showed us some natural seed was makes red paint and later he wanted a cigarette – not for smoking. If a certain insect stings him he burns out the would with a cigarette. We left after lunch and a few hours later it suddenly started to rain… but heavy rain. We had not even time for protecting us with the raincoats. In the beginning I found that rain extremely refreshing. But then the wind blew and the sky started to get darker… I realized that there will be no sun anymore for today and this clothes will stay wet. While feeling wet and uncomfortable – and dreaming of a hot shower – something swam in the river close to the canoe. It was a tortoise which was caught quickly. The indigenous man Don Cesar wanted to keep it. I still hope he brought it for his kids to play with and not for a family meal. Finally the camp was erected and as soon as the fire was burning I slowly became warm again. This time we were sleeping on the beach and that was the last night in the wilderness. The next day I will be sleep in a bed again.

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In the morning we visited the community school. There were not many kids at that time since most families went to Puyo for the Christmas holidays. The result was that they were only two kids in one and three kids in the other class. In Ecuador especially young teacher who just finished their degree at university will be send to these jungle schools to make their first teaching experiences. That is hard since many tribes have their own language and the teacher mostly does not speak it but the curriculum requires studies in their tribes language, in Spanish and also English. The kids are very intelligent and clever and thirst for knowledge.
Then we packed our things and took the canoe down the river without using the engine so we were supposed to see more wildlife. In reality it is very hard to spot animals in the amazon. We saw just a few birds every now and then but even those were so far away for taking great closeup pictures. We tried to fish some piranhas with the meanwhile smelly rotten leftover bait meat. I felt them biting but I could not catch any. This night we slept in the jungle were the guides cut free a campsite. Normally we would have tried spotting some alligators but it was full moon and that’s the only time where it is bright enough for them to spot you in the dark. So – never make a jungle trip at full moon if you want to spot them. Otherwise the moon was very beautiful and I ask the guide for just taking me out with the boat for watching the moon. I even saw few alligator eyes glowing red on the other riverside but that was all I saw of them.

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I woke up several times at night since it was so uncomfortable sleeping on a tree root. But anyway I didn’t wanted to sleep! I wanted to see some big cats going for my bait. But the night stayed calm except the rooster fall from his tree and unbelievable it didn’t crow in the morning – how unusual. I guess that was the only time when I wanted a rooster to crow. Short after waking up we packed and left back for the village. I learned a few things about healing plants of the amazon and I ask for seeing the Uña de Gato vine what helps to cure several ailments and also supposedly helps against cancer. I saw butterflies and tiny frogs and later being back in the community we saw wild wooley monkey. The same monkeys I had seen in the ‘Reserva de mono’ but in the wild. They came as close that the guide was feeding them with a couple bananas. For luch they prepared one of the village chicken since the villagers wanted to keep our lazy rooster to breed with their chicken. The food was delicious and after eating everybody came together and showed us their handicraft things to sell, how to make a fire without matches or lighter. They painted us with paint what will become dark blue over night. First it was transparent. Stories were told about one of the last uncontacted people the Tagaeri which try to resist the contact with civilisation. When they come in contact with people not of their own kind it is very common for them to kill them. So nobody can make contact to them. I was wondering how the Huaorani avoid crossing their territory by accident and they told me that funny but true fact: When they read the footprints Tagaeri ofter have six toes. That’s probably caused by inbreeding. So if they see a print with six toes they leave as fast as possible the area. Also Tagaeri avoid water. So their only way of crossing river is on fallen trees. They don’t use boats in contrast to the Huaorani. Later at dusk we were not allowed to leave far without guidance and flashlight since there supposedly so many venomous snakes and bugs in the jungle. At least we saw one snake what someone found close to the toilet. It was immediately killed because this community had lost a few children already to snakebite accidents.
The night was wonderful. It was close to full moon and the sound of the jungle is unique and you will never forget.

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A couple of weeks ago the horse guide in Baños had introduced me to few of his friends who had a travel agency in town which did tours into the primary amazon of Ecuador. I had loved my last amazon trip in 2009 so much so I was exited to go again. But since I travel alone this is a whole other story! Mostly travelers have to wait to find a bigger group or the need to book an expensive single guide. So I found myself lucky to run into these people who even insured me we could try to find a jaguar since I wanted to take pictures of it. I got a really great deal for five days but since we could reach that area only by plane it was going to be expensive. They told me a plane for seven people cost US$700 and wanted me to pay half of it – US$350. I found that too expensive and was lucky to find another guy Wendolin who was looking for a trip to the rainforest as well. So I could share the flight expense between two what made a great difference. For the jaguar the guides got a alive rooster as a bait and some beef meat. They thought the sound of a rooster and the smell of meat would catch the attention of a big cat… reality was it didn’t work out since territories of wild animals are big and traps have to be set a few days in advance. To the first Huaorani / Waorani tribe we took that tiny airplane. The first time that I have taken a small airplane like that. The great rainforest was lush and seemed limitless. Before we went on the plane we needed to weight ourselves and our belongings so that there was exactly not to much loaded. Ironic enough the pilot seemed to be quite heavy but that didn’t counted. After a 40min flight what didn’t seemed that long we arrived in the village and found ourselves surrounded by the people in an instant. They guided us to a big shelter and the guides started to cook. After that we went straight to that place were they tried to set the jaguar photo trap and the tents. This night was probably one of the most uncomfortable nights in my life and we had not seen any wild animal at all… Guess that all is part of the experience.

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I love that monkey place so much that few friends I met and I went again today. We rent a buggy car what was fun but actually not that smart since it was raining and the car is totally open… We bought lots of bananas for the monkeys and as soon as they realized what we were bringing they picked themselves some of the bananas right away… So much fun simply to observe them. I think the monkey expressions are so hilarious… Can’t stop taking pictures of them…

Reserva de mono

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